The Minute Hand 1:04 – Tourbillon

The Minute Hand

Welcome to our ongoing series of short articles about watches which should only take a minute or two to read. We continue today with a brief discussion of the tourbillon.


Tourbillon


In horology, a tourbillon (/tʊərˈbɪljən/; French: [tuʁbijɔ̃] "whirlwind") is an addition to the mechanics of a watch escapement. Developed around 1795 and patented by the French-Swiss watchmaker Abraham-Louis Breguet on June 26, 1801, a tourbillon aims to counter the effects of gravity by mounting the escapement and balance wheel in a rotating cage, to negate the effect of gravity when the timepiece (thus the escapement) is stuck in a certain position. By continuously rotating the entire balance wheel/escapement assembly at a slow rate (typically about one revolution per minute), the tourbillon averages out positional errors.

Originally an attempt to improve accuracy, tourbillons are still included in some expensive modern watches as a novelty and demonstration of watchmaking virtuosity. The mechanism is usually exposed on the watch's face to show it off. -- Source: Wikipedia

Ok, so what does that really mean to a watch buyer?

In a conventional mechanical watch movement, the balance wheel oscillates back and forth (by virtue of the hairspring). As it swings, it engages the escape wheel via a forked lever, releasing the torque supplied by the (much larger) mainspring located at the other end of the gear train. The balance wheel, the lever and the escape wheel are all at fixed locations on the movement's base plate (aka Main Plate). However, with a tourbillon, these 3 components are held together in a "cage" which rotates (typically once per minute) when the movement is operating.

Arnold & Son UTTE (Ultra Thin Tourbillon Execution)

Why go to the trouble and expense of doing this? Well, two centuries ago, it was done to average out the rate error between having a watch in various positions (face up on a night stand, held vertically in a watch pocket, etc.). Note that clocks have no need for a tourbillon since they remain in one orientation. Well, except for marine clocks and they were often mounted in a box with gimbals to overcome the same problem (gravity induced positional timekeeping error).

Marine chronometer mounted with gimbals

Now days, the theoretical timekeeping edge is just not really much of a demonstrated advantage. Some tourbillons may (or may not) keep better time than a similar movement with a conventional (fixed) escapement.

So why buy a tourbillon? Because they are often exposed on one or both sides of a watch. The animation they provide is a visual treat for watch collectors.  On a watch with a so-called "open heart" conventional movement, you can see the balance wheel oscillating and if you look closely you may see the escape wheel turning. This is considered to be a cheesy imitation of a real tourbillon.

In comparison, with a tourbillon, an entire set of bound together components are spinning as a single unit. The balance wheel still oscillates and the escape wheel spins on its axis while rotating along with the other items within the tourbillon's cage. Lot's more moving stuff to see (and appreciate).

Animation showing just a part of a full rotation

So why isn't every mechanical watch a tourbillon? Cost of course! There are many more small and precisely made parts in a tourbillon. Plus since the balance wheel and the hairspring's attachment point are rotating, it is much harder to regulate a tourbillon.

Another factor is market positioning. The Swiss have basically said that they won't produce a tourbillon for under $15,000 (and most are over $40,000). As they use this "complication" (really it is not a complication in the strict definition of the word) only on their higher priced watches.

TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer 02T - Photo Credit: aBlogtoWatch.com

There are Chinese tourbillons which you may be able to find for around $500 (and up) and they do provide the same animation. However the time keeping (accuracy) and overall watch quality is in line with what you get from a cheaply made Chinese watch.

Chinese Tourbillon

Times up! That's all for today. Stay tuned to the Hawaii Jewelers Association website for the next installment of "The Minute Hand" with your host, Mark Carson of Mark Carson / Individual Design watches.

Membership Renewal

Renew your Hawaii Jewelers Association membership online!

Retail Membership: Businesses with store‐fronts or online presence that retail jewelry directly to consumers. Membership fee is based on number of employees.

Associate Membership: Businesses that support the jewelry industry. This includes wholesalers, manufacturers, brokers, distributors, designers, and industry‐related service providers (buy/sell, security, insurance, financing, pawn brokers, etc). Membership fee is a flat rate fee.

Download the Membership Application/Renewal PDF file. Then complete pages 3 & 4 then return them to us (by mail or email).

Pay online now by clicking "Select" next to the appropriate category below that reflects your business.

EARLY BIRD PRICING - now through December 31, 2024.

Level No. of Staff Annual Rate
Retail - 1 1 - 4 $149 $99
Select
Retail - 2 5 - 10 $199 $149 Select
Retail - 3 11 - 20 $299 $249 Select
Retail - 4 21 - 40 $399 $349 Select
Retail - 5 Over 40 $499 $449 Select
Associate $199 $149 Select
Friend of HJA $49 Select
Privileged Communication including security alerts, newsletters,  e-blast featuring articles of interest, industry news, latest trends, philanthropy opportunities..

Advertising Opportunities including business listing on our membership directory, HJA referral, social media interaction, and for Associate Members -- a free table top display at our annual banquet/design contest.

Access to Special Events & Discounts including educational seminars, annual fundraising banquet, design competition, and discounts from participating members and community partners.

Recognition of Membership and Adherence to Code of Ethics with authorized use of HJA window sticker at place of business, use of HJA logo on website and marketing material, membership plaque, and assurance that all members are thoroughly vetted and adhere to the professional code of ethics.

Colored Stones Seminar by Douglas Hucker

Douglas Hucker did it again, providing an informative seminar on today's market with colored stones on Sunday, May 7, 2017 at the beautiful Oahu Country Club. Guests enhanced their gemstone knowledge with insightful tips on today's clientele, colored stone trends, and colored stone availability as they were provided a continental breakfast.

Douglas Hucker has dedicated his life to the jewelry business. His varied résumé includes stints teaching at GIA, serving as director of marketing for Krementz and Co., and running The Registry, an estate jewelry com­pany.  Since 1997, he has headed the Dallas-based American Gem Trade Association.

Ivory Ban In Effect (since June 30, 2017)

IVORY BAN IN EFFECT

With the signing of Senate Bill 2647, Hawai‘i passed the most comprehensive U.S. state law targeting illegal wildlife trade.

The law was passed by the Legislature in June 2016 and its effective date was June 30, 2017.  Individuals and businesses with wildlife products in their possession only had until June 29, 2017 to lawfully dispossess of the items (sale, gift, or transfer). Since then it is generally illegal to sell ivory (and other covered items) within or from the Sate of Hawaii. The law does provide some exemptions for bona fide antiques, musical instruments, guns and knives, and traditional cultural practices.

Private possession of ivory that was legally acquired remains legal, even though ivory commerce is generally prohibited as ofJune 30, 2017. For elephant  ivory to have been legally acquired it generally must have been imported prior to Federal bans beginning in 1975. Retailers should be careful not to display private collections of ivory as the bill includes a presumption of intent to sell clause.

Refer to the State of Hawaii website for details: http://www.capitol.hawaii.gov/session2016/bills/SB2647_HD2_.htm


This post by the Hawaii Jewelers Association is for information purposes only. It has not been reviewed by an attorney and should not be used as the basis for legal guidance.

Jewelry stores targeted in string of brazen robberies

Tuesday, April 4th 2017, 12:28 pm HST

HJA is in constant communication with the Honolulu Police Department regarding any crimes that we gain knowledge about.

HJA is in constant communication with the Honolulu Police Department regarding any crimes that we gain knowledge about.

We have been in collaboration with HPD to discuss the recent increase in local burglaries in order to keep our businesses and community informed.

"The Honolulu Police Department encourages any persons, or entities that are the victims of crimes to report these incidents immediately.  At present we have not identified any patterns indicating a significant rise in crimes perpetrated against jewelry retail establishments, but if these types of crimes are going unreported we may not be able to focus the appropriate resources to address these problems.  It is the Honolulu Police Department’s policy to not disclose specifics of a crime outside of departmental channels unless it is with the consent of the business owner."   

Captain Walter H. Ozeki
Honolulu Police Department
Criminal Investigation Division
Violent Crimes 
Please click here for more information from Captain Ozeki about jewelry store crime prevention.

Great Turnout for our First Seminar in 2017!

What a great way to start off 2017 with our first seminar filled with knowledgeable tips to utilize everyday at work. On January 25th, guest speaker, Debbie Hiss, motivated every person in the room with her enthusiastic approach to effectively improve sales performance. Every attendee left feeling motivated and voiced a new perspective to the basic concepts of selling.

Thank you again to those that attended this seminar and be sure to put those great tips to use to drive sales and improve customer retention!

Congratulations to our Holiday Giveaway Winner

HJA had our 2nd annual giveaway from November 1-December 10 2016. This year's award was a 14kt white and yellow gold Opal and diamond ring valued at $2,450.  Our lovely winner of this ring is Opal Fields client, Lori Uyehara! We love the fact that Lori birthstone is Opal so she was so happy to add this to her collection of fine jewelry.

Thank you participating HJA members! You made another giveaway such a a success!

Honolulu Jewelry Company creates a big birthday surprise for Wish Child, Shor

This wish was sponsored by Jeweler’s for Children, an international organization dedicated to uniting charitable giving efforts within the jewelry industry to children in need. Make-A-Wish has benefitted from this organization on a national and international level, and on a local collaboration with nonprofit Hawaii Jewelers Association (HJA).

HJA members volunteer by hosting wish celebrations for local kids whose wishes are sponsored by Jewelers for Children. HJA-member Honolulu Jewelry Co. allowed Shore and her siblings to tour the entire facility and gifted her a custom Hawaiian heirloom pendant necklace with her name on it. They watched the bench jeweler engrave an additional surfboard upon her request.

HJA members like Honolulu Jewelry Co. who participate in wish celebrations provide these kids with educational insight into their day-to-day operations by showing jewelry pieces, gemstones, diamonds, and machinery needed for production. At these events, wish kids are gifted a memorable piece of jewelry to serve as tokens of their wish journeys.

Read the full Press Release